Boondocker Control Box Manual
BoonDocker – 2379 Heyrend Way Idaho Falls, Idaho 83402 – 208-542-4411 / 877-522-7805 www.boondockers.com – email: info@boondockers.com – fax: 208-524-7381 Revised 12-14-07 Page 1 of 19 Arctic Cat EFI Control Box Instructions (Fuel + N 2 O Version, TPS capable) Before you begin, please read all the instructions below and check kit contents. Kit Contents: Quality check by: 1 Control Box 1 reusable zip-tie 1 EFI harness 1 TPS wire kit (if not in nitrous kit) 2 Black molded connectors 1 Advanced mode instructions 1 battery/jumper connector IMPORTANT NOTES – READ THIS! Note 1: Never unplug the Control Box when the engine is still running! Electrical damage may result which is not covered under warranty! Note 2: Avoid exposing the Control Box to environments where static charges may exist.
For example, quickly removing a sled cover from the sled in a dry environment can create a static spark that will damage the box (especially if the box is mounted up on the handlebars). Note 3: The Control Box is sealed – do not take it apart or it will no longer be sealed. The Control Box is designed to be splash-proof. Do not submerge or subject the box to high-pressure spray.
During long periods of non-use it is recommended that you do not leave the control box exposed to the elements. Note 4: If the headlights have been removed (often when the hood is removed or an aftermarket hood is used), the sled’s electrical system can cause interference with the Control Box.
In many cases, the sled’s ECU (computer) has been known to become damaged! We recommend and sell a 100W power resistor that can be used to place a sufficient load (in place of the headlights) on the electrical system to avoid this condition. This condition may or may not occur on newer model sleds. Note 5: Always use Resistor Spark Plugs! Non-resistor plugs WILL cause electrical interference with the Control Box. Arctic Cat Wiring Harness Verification and Connector Assembly Instructions All Models: Connect a test light to the chassis ground.
Unplug both stock injector connectors. Connect the test light to one of the contacts on the stock injector connector. Pull the starter rope and watch for the test light to come on. If there is no light, try the other contact terminal. The terminal that produces light is positive. After you have determined which of the terminals is positive, insert the red wire of the BoonDocker harness into the black connector to correspond with the positive wire on the factory connector.
Repeat for other connector “The positions are not always the same”!!!
Hey this is Junior from Boondocker, I work in the technical support department. As the season starts to wind up, questions about the BD Control Box become more and more frequent. I would like to have an open discussion on whatever questions might be out there. If you have any questions please ask and I will do my best to answer them promptly and to the point. The only thing I ask is that, this thread stay on topic with turbo control box questions only, as I’ve started a similar thread pertaining to naturally aspirated control boxes.
Thanks, Junior. It doesn't say anything in the install instructions about tuning in the oil pump. Do you have a written procedure for emailing, as I would like to do this myself. Thanks The reason there is no procedure to adjust the oil pump in the install instructions, is because it is extremely uncommon to have to do so, usually the stock setting provides plenty of oil. Not to say it couldn’t happen, but we have never had the need to make this adjustment.
If this adjustment does need to be made I would refer to the stock procedure. I have been waiting patiently for 3 weeks for my kit to arrive from the canadian boondockers. Yesterday I was told that there is a new update for my race kit box.
Can you describe this update and what prompted it? Thanks The new up date available for all BD turbo control boxes is ADA (Air Density Advantage), and the new simple tune programming. The ADA control box stabilizes the stock air temp reading going to the ECU, and measures turbo charge air temps. This gives the control box the ability to adjust fuel according to charge air temp which can very according to different boost levels, heat soak, and so on.
The new simple tune program is just that, “simple”. It consists of only two adjustable RPM ranges, and one PSI screen with only three adjustment points. These new boxes also come preprogrammed with numbers that are test proven, giving you the most dialed in turbo fuel controller available, right out of the box. The new ADA Simple Tune programming is also standard on all 09 BD turbo kits. I have installed the pump gas kit on my 08 800 dragon.
Is the control box pre programed and ready to plug in and play? What about that previous post about adjusting the oil pump? I have also been waiting for a muffler to come from boondocker canada for this kit. Any idea when it will be available? Where does it exhaust? I have been waiting to weld the pipe until the muffler comes in.
Any other helpful hints? Yes the control box is preprogrammed and should require little to no adjustments. Don’t worry about the oil pump adjustment this has not been an issue. I am not sure of the expected ship date on the new Dragon mufflers, but I do know they are a direct replacement for the exhaust pipe included in your kit, so you could finish the install with that, and replace it when the mufflers are available.
I have a pump gas kit for my 800 dragon. I know that polaris had a number of different reflashes for this engine. Is there a particular reflash that should be run with the ADA control box?
We have done testing with different Polaris re-flashes, and none of then seem to effect the BD control box tuning. Thank you for providing this service. I just finished the install last Saturday of your pump gas M8 Turbo Kit on my09. What is the best fix to avoid splitting the stock pipe, I have heard to strap it or replace it. Thanks and share the faith. With the exception of the old M7, the stock pipes do not have a problem splitting out. How ever after market pipes are made from a thinner material to save weight and do tent to split when used with a turbo.
Thanks for all the questions:). The reason there is no procedure to adjust the oil pump in the install instructions, is because it is extremely uncommon to have to do so, usually the stock setting provides plenty of oil.
Not to say it couldn’t happen, but we have never had the need to make this adjustment. If this adjustment does need to be made I would refer to the stock procedure. The new up date available for all BD turbo control boxes is ADA (Air Density Advantage), and the new simple tune programming. The ADA control box stabilizes the stock air temp reading going to the ECU, and measures turbo charge air temps.
This gives the control box the ability to adjust fuel according to charge air temp which can very according to different boost levels, heat soak, and so on. The new simple tune program is just that, “simple”. It consists of only two adjustable RPM ranges, and one PSI screen with only three adjustment points. These new boxes also come preprogrammed with numbers that are test proven, giving you the most dialed in turbo fuel controller available, right out of the box. The new ADA Simple Tune programming is also standard on all 09 BD turbo kits.
Yes the control box is preprogrammed and should require little to no adjustments. Don’t worry about the oil pump adjustment this has not been an issue. I am not sure of the expected ship date on the new Dragon mufflers, but I do know they are a direct replacement for the exhaust pipe included in your kit, so you could finish the install with that, and replace it when the mufflers are available. We have done testing with different Polaris re-flashes, and none of then seem to effect the BD control box tuning. With the exception of the old M7, the stock pipes do not have a problem splitting out.
How ever after market pipes are made from a thinner material to save weight and do tent to split when used with a turbo. Thanks for all the questions:) I am very excited to ride this new system of yours. Sounds like you guys really have it figured out!! I have a Nytro kit from last year.
Do I need to send my box to you for the updated ADA? Also any news on plumbing the oil direct to the turbo and dumping the oil tank?? Thanks Junior Great job on this thread.
DC Yeahwe need to have the box here to reprogram it with the new ADA, give us a call and someone will get you an RMA number. We do have a kit put together to upgrade the oil system on the Nytro.
This new oil system is a Free upgrade, again just give us a call and some one will hook you up. I have a 08 D8 do I need to send in my control box as well to get this update.
Is it going to do away with my 5 rpm ranges and 2 boost ranges. Also will there still be a low mid and a hi setting on the new box or is it literally only 3 adjustments. Thanks for the info Yes, you also will need to send your box in to get the ADA upgrade. The new programming has only 2 RPM screens, and 1 PSI screen, instead of 5 RPM screens, and 2 PSI screens.
There is a Low, Mid, Hi setting in each Screen, and comes preset with numbers already in the box. Give us a call, we’ll get you hooked up as well. 1-877-522-7805 Thanks for the questions. Good job on this thread Junior!! Can you tell me, I got my BD installed last winter,so is there a cost involved in the new box up grade,what do we do,I had mine installed and purchased from a mod shop,so must I go through him to be eligible for this Air Density upgrade??
Also does this up grade eliminate the issue of the total shut down in the most inopertune time that has been know to happen on the MT1000??? The ADA upgrade is $129.00, if you have a AC you can use the stock temp sensor, all other makes will need a temp sensor also $65.98. We always recommend that you go through your dealer, but you can go through BD directly if you would like. Canadian customers, who choose to go through BD direct, will need to go though Boondocker Canada. On the issue with the intermittent shut down, can you post or pm me the idling fuel pressure and control box numbers you’re running? Do you have the numbers for the bd control box for crankshop twin pipes for mach z 1000 at sea level.
Just starting numbers would be fine. I do not have Crankshop control box starting numbers, you should be able to get those from Crankshop. If you need anything else let me know, and I’ll do what I can to help. I have older box that has had 1 update 2 years ago how much will it cost for newest update & will the fuel mapping be different on new updates i dont want to start retuning for scratch like after first update.
Turbo-gator, are you looking for an update on a turbo box or an NA box? Hopefully this is not too far off topic, but what can a person expect to get for horspower gains from the pump gas kit at different boost rates? If the stock dragon is putting out 154 HP, what will we get with the pump gas kit at 5 PSI boost? How about 7 PSI boost or 8 PSI Boost? Junior may correct me on this but on a rough average figure is 8-10hp per lb of boost ontop of your stock hp Snow JW is right on with the average of 8-10 HP with every 1 psi of boost. What we’re seeing on the pump gas turbo D8s and M8s is about 180-200 actual HP (not corrected for sea level HP) running on 91 octane fuel.
This might be 4 psi of boost, and at 9000 ft. This could be 7 or 8 psi. Thanks for all the questions, Junior. I have installed the bd pump gas turbo kit. I just received the clutching kit from boondocker from the local dealer.
In the kit it came with 74g slp mtx clutch weights. They also came with 1 gram alum, 2 & 3 gram steel rivets.
Does anybody know what combination of rivets to use if any? I can't wait for monday when boondocher is open. Also a friend of mine heard I was putting the turbo on my dragon so he is now putting a 1200 kit on his 08 m10. What do you think will work better?
Hello spoke with Junior, run the clutching without any rivets, Thanks Diann. I just bought an 05 M7 with boondocker turbo.
I'm interested in the ADA upgrade. I know that some boxes are too old to be upgraded, mine is a version 4.2 and has one connector to the wiring harness. Can it be upgraded?
Do you have good pre programmed numbers for an 05 M7 in the simplified box? Right now the air temp sensor on my sled is just zip tied to the frame.
How is that supposed to get mounted to the intake which is presurized under boost? My kit has the turbo oil pump where the stock oil injection pump goes. I know on my old ski-doos I needed to fill the hoses that lubed the crank bearings. Does boondockers oil injection delete require something like this? Thanks for all of the help!
Junior: Thanks for taking the time to pass on and share this information. For those of us new to the turbo world it helps a lot to have first hand info to help guide decisions. I am set up to do a BD Pump gas kit for an 08 D8 through Justin (Snow JW). My question is this, I have already installed and M-10 skid, and judging by the pics of my sled and the one I copied of 'Puff' I think things are going to be a little tight on the exhaust dump. I know I want the muffler, but are there any other dump locations if this becomes an issue? Any plan B ideas? Thanks again.
EW My current tunnel with M-10, I also have 7 tooth extro's which seem to have the track running a little lower in the tunnel than Puff's. Puff's Install. A few better pics. This one shows a trace of where the M-10 upper front mounting block would sit.
I drilled a small hole to be a reference point that would show the most rearward edge of a possible cut out. This shows a mocked up trace of the cutout from the outside. The small hole is the reference point from the above picture. Looks like the M-10 would be about half way into the needed cut out. Any suggestions.
EW http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t21/EricW62/1006636.jpg. What are most people running for fuel pressure?
I am at 28-41-50 PSI with '3000' -3,-3,-1 '5000' +1, +1, +2. Fighting it from loading up in the 4000-6000 rpm range slow light throttle boondocking through trees but if I go any lower it gets too hot cruising down the trail around 5000-6000. Also, how about fuel mileage?
I have to sit out and watch the other guys most of the day so I can make it back the truck. Obviously, it takes fuel to make hp but I try to stay out of it as much as possible down the trail but I'm still burning a gallon or two more than the non-turbo M8's and M1000's before we even hit the step and deep.
Lastly, outside of the annoying loading up issue that could live with the sled runs GREAT! Thanks any help! What are most people running for fuel pressure? I am at 28-41-50 PSI with '3000' -3,-3,-1 '5000' +1, +1, +2.
Fighting it from loading up in the 4000-6000 rpm range slow light throttle boondocking through trees but if I go any lower it gets too hot cruising down the trail around 5000-6000. Also, how about fuel mileage? I have to sit out and watch the other guys most of the day so I can make it back the truck. Obviously, it takes fuel to make hp but I try to stay out of it as much as possible down the trail but I'm still burning a gallon or two more than the non-turbo M8's and M1000's before we even hit the step and deep.
Lastly, outside of the annoying loading up issue that could live with the sled runs GREAT! Thanks any help! We've been sending 09 RTR M8s out the door with the PSI# 25/35/45 with 0s in the RPMs and have been getting great feed back.
We have test riders at 6000 ft. Plus, running PSI# 20-30-46 with (“3000” 00 -02 00) (“5000” -02 -04 00) and they seem to be solid.
Let me know if this helps. Thanks, Junior. I bought that m7 turbo from you guys and picked it up at soda springs. I have some questions about adjusting my numbers. I went out Saturday, 21FEB2009, and the sled ran pretty poorly for most of the day. According to my GPS, I began the ride at the parking lot at about 8000 ft. I went as high as around 10,000 ft.
When I left the truck it was about 15-20F. The sled seemed to be bog-ish in the low rpm setting once it got warm. I had a hard time “waking” it up under almost all occasions. Once I was in the mid RPM range, it seemed to run better but would still stutter. Once the turbo started to spool up, the sled really seemed to take off.
However, after I got to the top of the rpm range, it would sputter and kind of jerk like it was gasping for air. I looked at the boost pressure and it was all the way down at like 7 psi. I turned the boost knob clockwise until I got a reading of around 11 and 12 max on the control box. The sled still seemed to run pretty rich (but I don’t know how to tune well enough to tell). After running at high RPMs for a second or two, when I let off, the sled would kind of backfire and stutter for a few seconds. The weirdest part is that once we got to the top, the sled really started to run PERFECT.
I was able to climb like you can’t believe and was getting max EGTs of 1300-1350. (the rest of the time I had a hard time getting to 1200). I don’t know what could have caused the shift to good performance, but it was like magic.
My two theories are 1) that I am actually running lean, and the higher elevation was what I needed (but this seems bogus because the sled ran fine at Soda Springs, elevation 5760 ft and it really ran poorly at Towgotee approx 10-11k ft – see Sundays description). 2) it did get up to 40+F maybe even 45F or higher. I suppose that the higher temperature could lean the engine out, right? I don’t really know how to start tuning the sled to fix it. I didn’t want to mess with any of the numbers because I didn’t want to screw anything up. I did manage to copy your “locked” program #1 to slot 2 and 3.
I also tried turning the button to N20 so I could try adding a little more fuel at the top end to make sure I wasn’t lean (I was really scared of being lean and burning it down). Using the N20 button to add 50 fuel at the top end seemed to make it run a little more poorly, but not much. Other than that, I didn’t mess with any of the numbers. Oh, the sled also had a hard time running after I had shut it off, (ie after riding then turning the key off, then starting it again within a minute or two, the sled would not wake up, then build boost for a second or two and then almost completely die out, then come back and after I would run it at the mid range –say down the trail for a lap or two – it would come back fine. Sunday, 22FEB2009, I went up to Towgotee. I unloaded at the lodge, approx 8500 ft., and rode up to Muskrat Meadow.
The temperature was 15-20F when I unloaded (approx 11:00 am). I doubt it got above 30F all day. The sled ran poorly all day. I really noticed it ran most poorly upon leaving the truck and then coming back to the truck.
Boondocker Control Box Manual
The sled continued to run best only if I kept the throttle in the mid position. If I were climbing, I would have to keep feathering the throttle between 1/3 and 2/3 to keep the sled from bogging out and nose diving.
If I were to hold it at full throttle, it would sputter at the top end. I looked at the box, and I don’t think I ever got above 8100 RPMs, 12 psi boost max, or 1200F EGT. Other things I noticed: The snowmobile burnt A TON OF FUEL. In about 3 hours of riding, I was almost completely out. I had to use my spare 2.5 gallons to get home – is that normal?
Can you help? Hey jr this is jeremy from guy's outdoor in lewiston. My sled is running awesome and i have no complaints but my numbers are WAY different from any others i have come across.
My sled is an 09 rmk 800 w/ bd pump gas turbo, running 10-13lbs of boost on straight race gas w/ motor octane of 109. My rpm numbers are same as stock but my psi numbers are 42-44-48 my fuel consumption is same as the stock sleds i ride w/ way better than phils:) and the piston wash looks good and plugs look good. Have you heard of any other running numbers similar to mine? Anybody know why I have to run my PG800 at completely different numbers than BD recommends?
If I run BD's #'s it will scuff pistons every time. Of which, they aren't paying for.
I'm running roughly 10 numbers higher on low mid and high trying to keep pistons in it. I've checked the fuel pressure, injectors, fuel filter, and everything else that I can think of. The BD numbers flat out don't work for my sled.
I have a koso wideband on it and last week it ran 13-14 to 1 in mid and 12.5 in high. The #'s can't be made to go any lower and any more fuel added in the mid makes it load up.
I have a 08 m8 PG turbo. Last time out, sled didn't want to run. Cutting out, backfiring, running on one cylinder and flashing a previous injector error and mag wires crossed error. Checked all the wiring and it was all to spec per boondockers manual.
Boondocker Control Box Manuals
No loose connections, everything looked good. We gave up and plugged the mag injector back in and the sled worked fine.
Granted we didn't change or fix anything other than unplug the injector and ECU for a short period. Anybody seen this? Why is it saying mag wired crossed when clearly their not? I see lots of questions without answers? Boondockers still here? I am trying to bring my BD race gas Tm7 back to life.
Went from non ADA to ADA and now it has several problems. 1) If I change numbers in advanced mode do those numbers only work in when I am in advanced mode or do they modify the non=advanced numbers?
2) I understand that in the simple mode the 3000 is RPM and lo-med-hi has to do with TPS or throttle position, is it the same on the PSI screen? Or does the lo-med-hi refer to boost levels? 3) I was told to play with the PSI numbers, when would I want to adjust the 3000 or the 5000 numbers?
My problem is when I climb at half or 3/4 throttle and need to get out and back in it want to die as if I hit the kill sw. I have unplugged the kill/saftey to rule that out.
It doesn't die but very close. If I play with the throttle pumping it it will kinda work but it's not right. It does not have the problem on the flat. THKS for anyones input. On an 08 m1000, do i need to have the sled ecu reflashed to the newest settings?
Boondocker Control Box Manual Storage
What is the max for the injectors on the 2010 kit? Whats the lowest boost you can run with the ebc? I have i set as low as it will go and am seeing 7.5 lbs of boost, what am i doin wrong if it will go lower? This is on a polaris, but I gotta assume the systems are fundamentally the same. The minimum boost is controlled by the wastegate actuator.
You set the tension on the wategate mechanically. From there the ebc can only go up and down from that.If you want it lower(boost), on the arm that connects to the wastegate, unthread it so there is less tension on the wastegate. Snowjw said to have it so you can just slip the arm onto the wastegate with out having to pull barely at all. Hope this helps.